As we speak, Omega is increasing its Speedmaster Skilled Moonwatch assortment with two new bicolor/two-tone fashions. It’s an thrilling day for individuals who could have needed the most recent motion and updates however discovered the all-steel fashions too boring and all-gold variations too costly. In different phrases, these two new Moonwatch variants may very well be the right center floor.
For a very long time, apart from particular and restricted editions, Omega’s Speedmaster Skilled Moonwatch was solely obtainable in chrome steel with a black dial and both a Hesalite or sapphire crystal. After introducing the present Moonwatch with caliber 3861 in 2021, the model added Sedna, Moonshine, and Canopus Gold fashions. A number of months in the past, Omega additionally added a white-dial choice to the catalog, which appears to draw a brand new viewers on high of the Speedmaster fans.
Not the primary bicolor Speedmasters
The present assortment was lacking a two-tone variation of the Speedmaster Skilled. Nevertheless, from 1983 onward, Omega had a number of steel-and-gold variations of the Moonwatch. The final was a Speedmaster Skilled Tokyo 2020 LE that got here out in 2018. The 2 new Speedmaster Moonwatch fashions use Omega’s Moonshine (yellow) and Sedna (rose) Gold.
Getting the colours appropriate
In accordance with Omega’s Vice President of Product Gregory Kissling, the recipe was simple, however the execution was not. Getting the identical dial colours because the solid-gold hyperlinks, bezel, pushers, and crown was difficult.
For instance, the metal and Moonshine Gold model has a silvery base dial and sub-dials with a galvanic 18K Moonshine Gold remedy. It required fairly some effort, intensive testing, and several other prototypes to get the sub-dial colours to match the strong 18K Moonshine Gold.
Moonshine and Sedna Gold alloys
Moonshine Gold is an alloy Omega launched 5 years in the past for the Speedmaster Apollo 11 fiftieth Anniversary restricted editions. Since then, the model has additionally used it on different fashions (even non-Speedmaster watches). This particular alloy of 18K yellow gold consists of 14% silver, 1% palladium, lower than 9% copper, and 75% common gold, leading to a barely paler yellow colour.
Sedna Gold debuted in 2012 and is Omega’s proprietary rose gold alloy. It contains greater than 75% gold, over 20% copper, and greater than 1% palladium. Attributable to carrying circumstances, commonplace rose gold turns a bit yellowish after time. Omega’s Sedna Gold alloy will decelerate this course of.
Caliber 3861 Grasp Chronometer
All the scale and technical (motion) specs are equivalent to the full-steel 42mm Moonwatch fashions. This implies a 47.5mm case size, a 13.2mm thickness, and a 20mm lug spacing. Omega’s caliber 3861 with its Co-Axial escapement is first licensed by COSC as a chronometer, and after casing, your complete watch receives its Grasp Chronometer certification from METAS.
This ensures not solely an accuracy of 0 to +5 seconds per day on common and safety towards magnetic fields of as much as 15,000 gauss but additionally water resistance to 50 meters. That final quantity means you possibly can swim with the present (Grasp Chronometer-certified) Speedmaster Skilled fashions as they’ve been examined and licensed to do that.
Gold places within the additional grams
In case you have been questioning, these new watches weigh 161 grams (the Sedna Gold one is a little bit bit heavier at 161.7 grams) with the bracelet unsized.
The chrome steel mannequin with sapphire weighs 140 grams (the Hesalite model weighs 134 grams), and the all-Moonshine Gold mannequin weighs 224 grams. Though the distinction between the full-steel and bicolor fashions doesn’t appear substantial, it’s noticeable on the wrist.
In contrast to current Moonwatch variations, the gold bezel has a Ceragold tachymeter ring (as a substitute of aluminum). Ceragold is Omega’s recipe for mixing ceramic with 18K gold seamlessly to make elements, akin to bezel inserts.
The brand new two-tone Speedmaster Skilled watches on the wrist
I’ve tried each bicolor Speedmaster watches over the previous few days, and I barely want the model in metal and Sedna Gold. Others within the Fratello workplace felt the metal and Moonshine mannequin had the benefit. There’s no objectively good or dangerous alternative right here; it’s only a matter of non-public choice.
Though I normally recognize (Moonshine) yellow gold a bit extra, the Sedna model does look good on my wrist. This additionally closely is determined by your pores and skin tone, after all. So the perfect recommendation I may give is to strive each of them on and determine which one works higher for you.
The metal and Moonshine model has a extra Eighties vibe, which I enormously recognize. It’s additionally a bit extra toned down than the metal and Sedna one, and the extra I have a look at it, the extra I prefer it, so who is aware of?! Each variations would look terrific in a white Testarossa or 560SEC anyway.
A bicolor Nixon bracelet with an extendable clasp
The ”Nixon” bracelet is just like these of the full-steel and full-gold fashions and tapers from 20mm to 15mm broad. Its clasp has a micro-adjustment mechanism, making it very simple to increase the bracelet a further 2.5mm on scorching summer time days. The chrome steel outer hyperlinks and (solid-)gold middle hyperlinks have a brushed satin end, whereas the slimmer intermediate hyperlinks have a sophisticated end.
On the within of the bracelet, all hyperlinks have a brushed end. I wouldn’t have minded a little bit of gold on the clasp as properly, just like the Omega brand or maybe the engraved traces.
Costs and availability of the brand new bicolor Speedmaster Skilled watches
A number of folks right here at Fratello personal a few of the older two-tone Speedmaster fashions, and I’ve all the time loved taking a look at them. It may be a pleasant change of tempo for those who’re normally into carrying full-steel watches. I personal a number of bicolor watches from numerous manufacturers however not the Speedmaster (in hindsight, I feel I ought to have purchased the metal and rose gold Tokyo 2020 mannequin with the inexperienced bezel insert). This new Moonwatch can be within the common assortment, so there is no such thing as a FOMO this time.
The brand new bicolor Speedmaster Skilled Moonwatch fashions can be found beginning right now at Omega boutiques and licensed sellers. The metal and Moonshine Gold Speedmaster Skilled has reference 310.20.42.50.02.001, and the metal and Sedna Gold Speedmaster Skilled has reference 310.20.42.50.99.001. You could find the total listing of specs under.
Each references have the identical retail value of CHF 17,200 (together with VAT) / €20,100 (together with VAT) / US$18,100 (excluding native gross sales tax). For comparability, the chrome steel Speedmaster Skilled begins at CHF 6,600 / €7,700 / US$7,000, and the full-gold, panda-dial Moonshine Speedmaster Skilled has a retail value of CHF 42,500 / €49,700 / US$44,800.
For extra info, go to the official Omega web site.
Watch specs
Mannequin
Speedmaster Skilled “Moonwatch”
Reference
310.20.42.50.02.001 (Moonshine Gold and chrome steel) / 310.20.42.50.99.001 (Sedna Gold and chrome steel)
Dial
Solar-brushed silvery step dial with galvanic 18K Moonshine Gold sub-dials, 18K utilized indices and palms / Solar-brushed 18K Sedna Gold PVD-treated step dial with blackened sub-dials, 18K utilized indices and palms
Case Materials
Stainless-steel with 18K Moonshine or Sedna Gold crown, pushers, and bezel, Ceragold bezel insert
Case Dimensions
42mm (diameter) × 47.5mm (lug-to-lug) × 13.2mm (thickness)
Case Again
Stainless-steel and sapphire crystal, screw-in
Motion
Omega 3861: hand-wound chronograph caliber, licensed Grasp Chronometer, 21,600vph frequency, 50-hour energy reserve, 26 jewels, antimagnetic to fifteen,000 gauss, Côtes de Genève ornament, rhodium-plated end, Co-Axial escapement, silicon steadiness spring
Water Resistance
5 ATM (50 meters)
Strap
Stainless-steel and Moonshine/Sedna Gold “Nixon” bracelet (20/15mm) with three rows of 18K gold middle hyperlinks, clasp with extension mechanism (2.5mm)
Features
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds), chronograph (12-hour and 30-minute registers, central seconds), and tachymeter
Worth
CHF 17,200 (incl. VAT) / €20,100 (incl. VAT) / 18,100 USD (excl. native gross sales tax)
Guarantee
5-year worldwide guarantee