Vacheron Constantin is the world’s oldest watch model in steady operation, and so they have fun an enormous anniversary this yr: 270 years. That’s an extremely very long time for an organization to exist, and just by advantage of its age, Vacheron has survived just about each sort of calamity that may befall the human beings who, on the finish of the day, are liable for maintaining the factor going. Wars, illness, extra wars, Instagram hype – Vacheron has seen all of it. It’s actually a milestone price celebrating, and as manufacturers are likely to do when these huge numbers crop up, they’re doing it with a watch (most likely a bunch of watches, to be honest – it’s solely January). In any case, to start their huge anniversary yr, Vacheron Constantin has launched a brand new model of their 222 in metal, a watch that has been anticipated and speculated about since its most rapid predecessor was launched simply shy of three years in the past.
Simply in case anybody wants a refresher, the 222 was Vacheron Constantin’s unique entry within the built-in bracelet sports activities watch sweepstakes in 1977, the model’s 222nd anniversary yr (that is an anniversary watch to its core). It got here after their counterparts within the so-called Holy Trilogy of Swiss watch manufacturers launched their very own takes on this model (the Audermars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus, each designed by Gerald Genta) and was not constantly produced, so it didn’t attain the family title standing of these watches. The 222 was all the time extra of a collector’s favourite and a little bit of an insider’s secret, whilst curiosity in built-in bracelet sports activities watches was rising during the last decade. Moreover, Vacheron had the Abroad, their trendy and extra overtly sporty tackle the style to instantly compete with the Royal Oak and Nautilus.
Three years in the past, at Watches & Wonders 2022, Vacheron debuted a brand new 222 in stable yellow gold, which for a lot of was not solely a spotlight of the present, however one of many prime releases of the yr. Primarily a 1:1 recreation of the unique 222 in its proportions, this yellow gold Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 222 had an preliminary retail worth only a bit over $60,000 and was apparently produced in very restricted portions, out there solely from Vacheron boutiques. Unsurprisingly, as quickly because it was launched, there have been requires a metal model, and the group started speculating about what a brand new 222 assortment may seem like.
I’ve to confess, I’m sort of glad that Vacheron didn’t instantly start churning out variants on the 222 theme. It made that reintroduction really feel particular, and the truth that you merely don’t see these watches flip up on the pre-owned market (no less than not with the frequency of Royal Oaks and varied Nautili) has me pondering that they actually did preserve manufacturing down and get these watches into the arms of significant Vacheron collectors. In the event you had requested me every week in the past if Vacheron ought to introduce a metal model of the 222 I’d have stated “no manner, preserve it gold, solely make a handful of them a yr, and keep a few of the mystique.” Now that they’ve made a metal model, I’m not precisely consuming my hypothetical phrases (the watch appears to be like nice, in spite of everything, and I’ll by no means begrudge one other superbly made object coming into the world) however it has me questioning what Vacheron’s actual plans are right here.
The brand new metal 222 is, for all intents and functions, the identical watch that we noticed in 2022 however with a change in case materials and a brand new dial coloration. A part of the enchantment of the gold model was that the dial was additionally gold, which gave the entire bundle an impossibly opulent and excessive look. Quite than attempt to recreate that aesthetic with the metal 222 by going with a dial in a grey or silver tone to enhance the colour of the case steel, we get a darkish blue dial as an alternative. In these VC equipped photos it appears to be like…wonderful. Perhaps slightly plain or generic for my style, however it’s a pleasant shade of blue that ought to be a lot versatile for many who are in a position to get hold of considered one of these and truly intend to put on it. The case nonetheless measures 37mm and is 7.95mm tall. That’s only a bit thicker than the unique 222 launched within the 70s, however nonetheless results in an excellent sporting expertise that, as you’d anticipate, evokes placing on a real classic piece in one of the best ways potential. It stands to motive provided that this watch and bracelet are made in metal that the brand new model will probably be fairly a bit lighter than the gold 222, which should make it much more wearable.
The discharge of this watch begs the query: what’s the 222 to Vacheron Constantin? It appears secure to imagine that the metal model of this watch will probably be each bit as powerful to get because the gold – the response up to now on social media and in remark sections is principally rapturous. It makes me surprise if extra dial variants are within the pipeline, or a bigger measurement, and even problems. That will be a transfer proper out of the Richemont playbook (take a look at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s technique with the Reverso, for example, and even Cartier with their assortment privé releases), however I’d hope that Vacheron would elect to maintain the 222 as one thing slightly extra restricted and collector targeted. You hate to see a 270 yr previous model chasing hype, in spite of everything, notably when it looks as if curiosity in built-in bracelet sports activities watches is cooling a bit.
The brand new Historiques 222 is just not a restricted version, however just like the earlier gold model, it’s going to solely be out there in Vacheron boutiques. The worth is $32,000, a determine that’s each eye watering and, someway, not precisely stunning given the posh watch local weather. It might sound to many like the marketplace for excessive finish watches is down, however Vacheron Constantin is outwardly selecting to not acknowledge that of their anniversary yr, and I think about their purchasers who’ve entry to the metal 222 will probably be pleased to look the opposite manner as nicely. Vacheron Constantin
