When a model’s debut watch has many iterations, I suppose the temptation to additional iterate is lowered, and the urge to construct one thing new grows. That appears to be the case with Möels. The British model based by designer Betina Menescal launched in 2019 and, forward of this most up-to-date launch, dropped a killer mid-century Fashionable watch, the Möels 528. That watch dug deep right into a retro vibe, however the model’s latest providing is decidedly extra trendy. The Möels 369 catches the built-in bracelet development whereas sustaining a few of the signatures of the 528, and identical to its predecessor, was launched in a slew of dial variants.
The Möels 369 has a wholly totally different look and presence than the 528. As a substitute of a smooth rectangular case, the 369 contains a hybridized tonneau-cushion design with an built-in bracelet. The case is 39mm large and measures 12.25mm thick. That’s considerably stout for 39mm, however actually not unmanageable. The stubby onion crown screws down and helps obtain a powerful 200m of water resistance, whereas the domed sapphire crystal maintains the convex curve of the cushion-shaped bezel, which has a sophisticated edge. I’m unsure I anticipated 200m of water resistance on a watch like this, and I received’t complain in regards to the added peace of thoughts, however as I discussed in a earlier evaluate, if decreasing it to 100m might need taken off some heft, that might be my choice. Slim polished bevels additionally hint the highest and backside edges of the tonneau midcase, curving down on the finish of the case’s 46.5mm lug-to-lug.
Whereas it might have wonderful dimensions on paper, you’re feeling each little bit of these measurements on the wrist. The large bezel and added width from the midcase offers it a way more distinguished look and presence than different 39mm watches. That stated, I by no means discovered it to really feel overwhelming on my 7-inch wrist; quite the opposite, there appeared to be an intentionality to the heft of the watch. Not like some designs which can be cumbersome for lack of refinement, this appears to function a counterpoint to the 528, and have a case that insists upon being seen and loved. And I discovered myself doing each.
The bracelet stays chunky, not providing any tapered thickness from the case, however slimming in width towards the folding clasp which has a built-in micro-adjustment mechanism. The bracelet itself is correctly built-in into the case — the one solution to take away it’s with a screwdriver, although the model does ship every 369 with a 20mm adapter that attaches and permits pairing with your personal straps. Whereas a set got here with the watches, I discovered eradicating the two-ended screw on the lugs a chore that required two screws and dexterity and finely utilized power that I don’t seem to have. I’ve used related adapters on different built-in bracelet watches; it’s good to have the pliability, however it may possibly look a little bit awkward (just like the Tudor P01), and I often find yourself holding the watch on the bracelet. The general design is decidedly trendy, nearly futuristic, creating additional separation from the strap-only 528. Nevertheless, it must be famous that because of the thicker construct of the watch and the bracelet, in addition to minimal articulation, the fitment won’t be good for everybody.
The Möels 369 is obtainable in a dizzying array of colours, 9 in complete. 4 of the dials are lumped, whereas 5 are unlumed. Aside from the black Darkstar, each dial contains a brushed floor, most of them with a daring coloration. The 2 seen right here, Terra Brass and Emerald Forest, showcase the brushing fantastically. There are additionally purple, purple, blue, silver, and some different dials. As talked about, Möels took the identical method right here because it did with the 528: there are many colours to supply one thing for everybody.
The dials all keep the segmented dial that outlined the 528, with skinny traces splitting the dial into hour sections. The skeletonized fingers are additionally related, although have been tweaked to ensure their proportions go well with the 369 dials. A railway fashion minute monitor surrounds the dial, with utilized markers arcing between the hours. Between the markers, you’ll discover numbering in 5-minute intervals. Considered one of my favourite touches is the vertical “Möels” branding at 6 — and the dearth of another dial textual content. It retains issues clear and avoids litter. On the unlumed fashions, the fingers and markers all get a high-polish, however on the lumen dials, they’re all lumed. Particularly, the markers are stable Lume, what the model calls LumeBlocks, whereas the fingers have matching Tremendous-LumiNova utilized. Virtually talking, which means that the markers are considerably brighter and extra uniform than the fingers, although each shine adequately.
From a manufacturing standpoint, the big variety of dial choices seems to imply decrease numbers for every dial, which means the recent ones promote out sooner than. Most small manufacturers are hitting their minimal order portions throughout variants, as an alternative of with every variant. With MOQs usually round 300-500, meaning a model has to determine easy methods to allot the full between the totally different variants: on this case, I’m unsure if Möels opted to go for a good break up, or tried to anticipate which colours would do greatest and order extra of these. I’ve seen each executed, and I don’t suppose there’s essentially a successful components.
Beneath a caseback that appears creates a way of thriller, the Möels 369 is the Swiss automated Sellita SW200-1 in its no-date execution. Meaning a minimal energy reserve of 38 hours (the quoted common is 41 hours) at 28,800 vph. Möels studies an accuracy of -/+ 12 seconds per day, suggesting the bottom execution of the SW200-1. That was no hassle for me, because the caliber has greater than confirmed its mettle by means of its use in a whole lot if not 1000’s of various watches.
It’s thrilling to see a model launch a sophomore mannequin that’s so divergent from its debut, particularly when it manages to create a throughline. That’s what I feel Möels has achieved right here. The Möels 369 captures a nonetheless energetic development with its built-in bracelet design, however introduces a brand new dial that’s elegant, trendy, and balanced. The stoutness of the case might ward some off, however those that determine to seize a 369 are positive to be pleased with it. The Möels 369 is priced at £1,150 GBP for all fashions, lume and unlumed. For extra data, please go to the Möels web site.
