One other Friday, one other record! It’s the final Friday of the yr and, subsequently, additionally the final record of 2024. We might nonetheless make loads of lists about the most effective watches of 2024, however we determined to go forward and launch one last record trying again on the previous 12 months and go away it at that. Positive, we might cowl the most effective chronographs, gown watches, sophisticated watches, and so on. However we determined to go together with the most effective dive watches of 2024. In any case, dive watches are the sort that lands on our Fratello desks essentially the most typically. On prime of that, now we have seen some wonderful takes on the style. So listed here are our 5 favourite divers of 2024.
We had many various concepts when Nacho and I began considering this yr’s last record. That was till we found out that dive watches had taken a little bit of a backseat this yr. With the recognition of formed watches, stone dials, gown watches, reissues of trendy classic classics, and a few excellent high-end sophisticated watches, it appeared that dive watches didn’t have the highlight in 2024. And that exhibits within the first a number of best-of-2024 lists by the Fratello writers, together with the one by yours actually. Whereas dive watches won’t have been the primary story of the yr, it hasn’t been a quiet yr for the class in any respect. On prime of that, it’s nonetheless most likely the preferred style for lots of our readers. This offers us loads of causes to spherical off the yr with our 5 favourite divers.
Omega Seamaster Skilled Diver 300M
Let’s kick this record off with a current launch. We knew it needed to come in some unspecified time in the future after we noticed it on the wrist of Daniel Craig throughout the Summer season Olympics in Paris earlier this yr. When it did, we lastly had an opportunity to take a look at what we thought could be fairly superior. And in all equity, it’s! We lately reported on all three of the brand new Seamaster Diver 300M introductions, which present the range the design permits. Whereas the “Silver Surfer” that Lex adores and the inexperienced titanium Bronze Gold model are nice examples of this, the “normal” black model might be the preferred with a big viewers.
I had an opportunity to go hands-on with the watch and liked each second of the expertise. The brand new Seamaster fixes lots of the sensible points I’ve with the common mannequin. Moreover, the mesh bracelet provides a sublime classic twist to the watch, which it carries properly. The brand new Seamaster nonetheless has a 42mm stainless-steel case that’s 13.8mm thick and measures 49.7mm from lug to lug.
Throughout the case lies an excellent good black aluminum dial that revives the advantageous wave sample of the ’90s Seamasters. Giant utilized luminous indexes create a properly balanced dial and not using a date window. Lastly, the bezel insert is aluminum to match the dial and provides the watch a extra retro-focused enchantment.
A simple first choose for this record
Contained in the case, you can see the tried-and-true Grasp Chronometer caliber 8806, the proper engine for this Seamaster. On the wrist, the standard of the watch is spectacular. The bracelet gives a pleasant taper from 20mm to 18mm on the clasp, and the consolation is nice.
Admittedly, we didn’t just like the stacking of each ends and the added thickness of the clasp, which ended up being cumbersome. Apart from that, although, this new model of the Seamaster Skilled Diver 300M is a good addition to the lineup. Because the feedback confirmed, lots of our readers choose this one over the common model. This means that Omega did an superior job with this new Seamaster, making it a straightforward first choose for this record.
Doxa Sub 200T
One of many nicest surprises of this yr was the Doxa Sub 200T. A smaller, slimmer, and subsequently extra wearable Doxa turned out to be an important subsequent transfer for Doxa. We have now seen the model introduce fancier variations of its classics, which led to combined reactions. However this new line of Sub 200T watches rapidly garnered a lot of reward. Positive, when you choose the “actual deal,” the Sub 300T is the best way to go. However when you like the everyday Doxa aesthetic and like a snug day by day wearer, that is your choose. The watches function a 39mm stainless-steel case that’s 41.5mm lengthy and 10.7mm thick.
Moreover the pleasant dimensions, the designers additionally balanced out the proportions properly. This ensures that the watch sits very properly on the wrist, which is the important thing to a pleasant day by day wearer. Contained in the case, you can see the trusted Sellita SW200-1 as a dependable motion to energy the watch.
As Thomas defined in his overview, the brand new Sub 200T is a good look ahead to individuals who love the basic Doxa seems to be however don’t like the dimensions and bulkiness of the Sub 300 or Sub 300T.
If that sounds such as you, the Sub 200T is the reply. The most important problem is discovering your most popular dial coloration and end. Doxa gives fairly just a few of them, together with the brand new Sea Emerald inexperienced with gold-tone accents that look tremendous fashionable. The most effective factor is that Doxa gives the brand new Sub 200T for €1,550 on rubber and €1,590 on the bracelet. At these costs, these new Sub 200T fashions are tempting and, subsequently, an important second choose for this record.
Seiko Prospex SPB483
Seiko is likely one of the manufacturers we instantly take a look at compiling an inventory like this. The Japanese watch big graced us with one other lengthy stream of recent releases in 2024. In relation to the Prospex divers, there was rather a lot to debate. We noticed two new Marinemaster fashions based mostly on the 1968 Diver, which revealed that the Marinemaster identify will now be used for a number of fashions.
Moreover, the model launched the successors to the SPB143, which showcased a number of spectacular enhancements to the favored Prospex mannequin. However the greatest Prospex introduction of the yr was a trio that includes a brand new case and an octagonal bezel. The Seiko Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 divers had folks speaking.
The fast visible reference is apparent. As a result of octagonal bezel, you understand what most watch followers draw parallels to instantly. And to be completely trustworthy, so did we at Fratello. However when you get previous that preliminary reference and begin seeing the look ahead to what it’s, there are a variety of attention-grabbing particulars to unpack. We have been impressed by the trendy case form and its angular lugs. It’s a fantastically sculpted case that measures 41.3mm in diameter, 48.2mm from lug to lug, and 12.5mm thick. It’s mixed with dials impressed by flowing coastlines, and the pairing works properly.
The shade of blue used for the SPB483 is sensible
The most effective of the three fashions for us was the blue SPB483. This was due to its mixture of a blue bezel insert and dial, making it essentially the most enticing. An enormous a part of that attraction comes from Seiko’s shade of blue. It’s a wealthy, deep blue that appears beautifully fashionable. That turns into particularly clear after getting the watch in your wrist. That’s additionally the place it exhibits how properly the Seiko designers mixed a brand new silhouette and injected it with all of the Prospex components to make it really feel like a correct Seiko diver.
The watch is completely proportioned, creating a pleasant visible stability, and the snug bracelet with polished and brushed hyperlinks provides to the visible attraction of the SPB483. What appeared like an oddball form at first turned out to be an important new addition to the Prospex lineup that makes excellent sense. At €1,200, it is likely one of the most attention-grabbing dive watches that Seiko at present gives, and regardless of its divisive form, we rapidly started to like this third choose for our record.
Tudor Black Bay Grasp Chronometer “Monochrome”
When Tudor introduced the “Monochrome” model of the Black Bay Grasp Chronometer, it didn’t come as an enormous shock. Nonetheless, there was no denying how good it was. Final yr, we noticed the burgundy model of the identical watch. It was a slimmed-down model of the 41mm Black Bay with an up to date Tudor caliber MT5602-U, which carries a METAS Grasp Chronometer certification.
It was a formidable replace to the usual Black Bay, however some Fratello staff members agreed that the burgundy model wasn’t the one to go for. This yr’s new black model instantly confirmed why. The watch shakes the retro really feel by way of the absence of gold particulars and beige lume. This nice design choice makes this the proper trendy model of the vintage-inspired Black Bay.
Many individuals, together with yours actually, typically ask whether or not Tudor will ever convey again the Submariner. The reply is that this new Black Bay. It ticks all of the containers you would need and want to return as near the basic Tudor and Rolex Submariners as potential. The watch has a wonderfully proportioned case with a 41mm diameter, 13.6mm complete thickness (together with the crystal), and 50mm size. It additionally has a 200m depth score and a 21mm lug spacing.
The right modern-day Sub with the enchantment of the classics
Tudor gives this watch with a black rubber strap or two bracelet choices, however the undisputed winner for me is the basic Oyster-style bracelet with its fake rivets. The opposite possibility is a Jubilee-style bracelet, however the Oyster-style one makes this watch the proper trendy Tudor Sub with simply the proper injection of classic enchantment. At €4,510, it’s merely the total package deal. It’s a contemporary day by day wearer with the model and enchantment of the basic Submariners, and it may be yours for a fraction of the worth of the classic fashions. Whereas it won’t have been as stunning because the Black Bay 58 GMT that additionally got here out, the Tudor Black Bay Grasp Chronometer “Monochrome” is a stable fourth choose for our record.
Singer Divetrack
The final entry for this yr’s last record is the sensible Singer Divertrack. If you’re a diver, you’ll have liked what Singer got here up with for this new dive watch. The model primarily redefined what a dive watch might be. With a handful of skilled divers on the Fratello staff, it’s no shock that the watch was met with a lot of pleasure. However even in case you are not a diver, you’ll love what Singer has created in its typical model. To grasp the watch, you have to go away any standard ideas about what a diving chronograph is on the door. They may solely confuse you.
The Divetrack makes use of the idea of a chronograph to time your total dive journey. That idea is breathtaking and all about Dive, Chill, and Fly. It begins with a titanium case, which is a whopping 49mm in diameter and 19.67mm thick.
Nonetheless, as Robert-Jan talked about in his overview, that is the last word diving device, not a luxurious watch that finds a spot below the cuff of your ironed shirt. The design finds the proper stability of Singer’s signature model with little hints of nice dive classics, such because the Seamaster 600 PloProf and the Seiko (Grandfather) Tuna 6159-7010 from the Nineteen Seventies.
The diving journey dropped at life by the idea of Dive, Chill, and Fly
Singer makes use of the Dive, Chill, and Fly precept to let you know how a lot time is important between the three actions. As any diver can let you know, the human physique wants sufficient time between dives to eliminate the gases it absorbs. As Robert-Jan defined, these gases will exit the tissues, enter the blood, and be exhaled into the environment once more.
This course of shouldn’t be instantaneous, and within the first six “chill” hours, it is strongly recommended to find out how lengthy it’s best to keep surfaced relying in your earlier dive time, depth, and so on. If you wish to get on a aircraft after a dive, you have to wait at the very least 18 hours, which the watch additionally signifies. The watch tracks all the dive journey earlier than you progress on to a different dive or journey to a distinct vacation spot.
It’s an interesting idea dropped at life by the AgenGraphe 24-h Automated Chronograph motion. This caliber consists of 479 parts, together with 56 jewels. It ticks at 21,600vph and gives an influence reserve of 72 hours. This can be a correct piece of excessive horology that revolutionizes the world of mechanical dive watches. Whereas the watch’s CHF 85,000 worth makes it one for the blissful few, we love this Singer Divetrack. It’s a refreshing tackle a dive watch and a formidable piece of engineering. Add the attribute Singer seems to be, and also you simply have one in every of this yr’s greatest dive watches and the proper final choose for our record.
Closing ideas on the most effective dive watches of 2024
As at all times with a year-end record, we might have picked many extra nice watches for this one. Nonetheless, we really feel that these 5 dive watches completely signify the range of the style when it comes to performance, design, and worth factors. Another notable dive watches that got here out this yr embrace the brand new Oris Divers Date, the spectacular Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière, the ultra-capable Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810, the colourful Nezumi Baleine LE and Breitling Rainbow fashions, the long-awaited 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, the trendy reissue of the Zenith Defy A3648, the Zenith Defy Excessive Diver, and, lastly, our collaborative Jacques Bianchi Marseille × Fratello JB200 PoulPro Evening Diver Restricted Version. And that’s only a small choice of the nice dive watches of 2024!
Lastly, a particular point out goes to the Christopher Ward × seconde/seconde/ C65 Desk Diver, which was a enjoyable play on the best way that the majority watch followers use their dive watches. It’s the excellent lighthearted ending to our last record for 2024. I’ve nothing extra to say aside from to want you a cheerful new yr, and we’ll see you in 2025 for extra watch-related lists!
