Joyful New Yr, everybody! I hope you celebrated in fashion final evening! As you could know, yearly, we recap all of the Seiko and Grand Seiko releases we coated right here on Fratello. Final week, we revealed an summary of all of the 2024 Seiko releases we wrote about. This time, we’ll give attention to the Grand Seiko releases we coated in 2024. As everyone knows, with a stream of reference numbers as names, it may be onerous to recollect which watch is which. That’s why we created this overview of all of the Grand Seiko goodness of the final 12 months.
Grand Seiko celebrated the Twentieth anniversary of its Spring Drive-powered watches in 2024. Resulting from this, the model graced us with a number of new Spring Drive releases, reminding us of what makes the expertise so particular. However that was not all that we noticed from Grand Seiko in 2024. Certainly, there was all kinds of recent references with all forms of calibers. So, with out additional ado, let’s soar in.
Leaping into February for our first protection
Our Grand Seiko protection in 2024 began on the primary day of February with the SBGX355 “Snowflake Quartz.” As Mike defined, the watch follows the design of the Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGA211, which is arguably the model’s modern-day traditional. Nevertheless, because of the smaller 37mm Excessive-Depth Titanium case and quartz motion, the SBGX355 is a notably totally different watch.
However its most defining characteristic is the attractive white dial with its windswept snowy texture and the attractive blue seconds hand hovering above it. Contained in the case, you can find the model’s quartz 9F62 caliber, which affords an unbelievable accuracy of ±10 seconds per yr. General, this was a surprising approach to open the yr alongside the 28.9mm STGF385 “Women’ Snowflake.”
February continued with Thomas’s hands-on evaluation of the Grand Seiko SBGA497. It was the primary of the Twentieth-anniversary Spring Drive fashions we coated in 2024. The 1,500-piece restricted version mixed a 41mm Excessive-Depth Titanium case and bracelet with a surprising pink dial that jogs my memory of the sensible SBGH413 “Shunbun.”
Contained in the elegant case, you can find the automated 9R65 Spring Drive caliber, which is correct to ±15 seconds per thirty days and has a 72-hour energy reserve. In good Spring Drive custom, an influence reserve indicator sits between 7 and eight o’clock on the dial, displaying how a lot “juice” stays within the mainspring. The SBGA497 is a superb show of Grand Seiko’s watchmaking capabilities.
Extra spectacular Grand Seiko releases in February
I already talked about my favourite SBGA413 “Shunbun.” In February, Grand Seiko launched the Hello-Beat mechanical model of that 62GS mannequin in two dial variations that Daan coated. The primary featured a pink dial just like that of the Shunbun and impressed by the cherry blossom petals hiding behind the spring snow. The green-dial model was impressed by the cherry flowers blooming and the younger leaves sprouting concurrently. However these watches are extra than simply Hello-Beat variations of the SBGH413.
These two new fashions additionally characteristic a smaller 38mm titanium case, completely becoming wrists of varied sizes. Contained in the case, you can find Grand Seiko’s acquainted Hello-Beat caliber 9S85 ticking away at 36,000vph. Fortunately, Grand Seiko added the pink SBGH341 and the inexperienced SBGH343 to the common assortment, making them accessible to everybody (price range allowing, after all).
An abundance of sensible Grand Seiko releases in April
Throughout Watches and Wonders, we noticed a plethora of great Grand Seiko novelties. The standouts have been the SLGW003 and SLGW002 “Birch Bark” that Thomas coated. This pair of Evolution 9 fashions launched the manual-winding caliber 9SA4. Moreover, the brand new 38.6mm instances proved the proper fashionable evolution of the traditional Sixties 44GS case. Whereas the SLGW003 includes a Sensible Laborious Titanium case, the 80-piece LE SLGW002 is available in 18K rose gold.
The brand new Hello-Beat caliber 9SA4 relies on the prevailing computerized caliber 9SA5 and affords 80 hours of energy reserve and an accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day. If that’s not spectacular sufficient, the calibers look wonderful and make for a surprising pair of watches that have been a spotlight of the truthful in Geneva.
I coated the opposite new introductions throughout Watches and Wonders, together with the Grand Seiko SLGH021 “Genbi Valley,” which joins the household of so-called “Birch” fashions within the Evolution 9 assortment. One other standout was the Grand Seiko SBGJ277 “Sekkei,” which launched a brand new colorway for the model’s sports activities GMT collection. Different highlights have been the Grand Seiko SBGW314 “Hoshizukiyo” — one other fashionable reinterpretation of the primary Grand Seiko — and the 2 “Tokyo Lion” fashions.
Grand Seiko SBGJ277
Grand Seiko SBGW314
Grand Seiko SBGE307
Grand Seiko SBGC275
The primary of these was the Grand Seiko SBGE307, a sporty GMT, and the opposite was the SBGC275, a 700-piece restricted version. This sporty red-dial chronograph GMT commemorated the Twentieth anniversary of the 9R Spring Drive caliber.
In July, Lex went hands-on with essentially the most spectacular Grand Seiko
Two years in the past, Grand Seiko launched the extensively praised Kodo Fixed-Pressure Tourbillon SLGT003. Then, throughout Watches and Wonders this yr, the model launched the follow-up SLGT005. This new Kodo Fixed-Pressure Tourbillon “Dawn” brings a lighter total aesthetic that appears spectacular and highlights the technical wizardry even higher than the primary mannequin.
As Lex defined just a few months after the watch’s launch, the tourbillon of the caliber 9STL that powers the 2 Kodo fashions has an inside carriage that rotates at eight beats per second, whereas the constant-force mechanism rotates at one beat per second. The constant-force mechanism, which releases the vitality from the mainspring into the motion in common doses, is a part of a singular building with a tourbillon on the identical axis. This follow-up SLGT005 was one other nice reminder of Grand Seiko’s watchmaking brilliance that surprised the world two years in the past. It actually impressed us once more in 2024.
August noticed extra hands-on experiences with the brand new Grand Seiko releases
In early August, Mike went hands-on with the titanium Grand Seiko SLGW003 launched throughout Watches and Wonders. As Mike acknowledged, it was one of many absolute highlights of 2024 for the model. With a brand new case form and manual-winding motion, the light-weight SLGW003 significantly impressed him. He even acknowledged that the brand new 9SA4 caliber can compete with the most costly names from Switzerland. Coming from Mike, that claims rather a lot.
Extra new introductions adopted quickly with a pair of USA-exclusive Spring Drive fashions to rejoice the Twentieth anniversary of Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches as soon as extra. Each the SBGA507 and SBGA509 mix a 44GS-style case with a surprising dial impressed by the morning and night skies over Lake Suwa. As Daan defined, the linen-like texture of the dial is sort of distinct, and it really works properly with the blue dial of the SBGA507.
In the meantime, the SBGA509’s dial is someplace between salmon and crimson, and the identical texture seems to be good right here as properly. Each watches home the model’s Spring Drive caliber 9R65. The facility reserve indicator on the dial of those two stunning watches is a tell-tale signal of this. Grand Seiko launched every watch as a 300-piece restricted version accessible solely in america.
August was stuffed with extra heat surprises
We closed August out with the autumn-inspired Grand Seiko SBGY035 and SBGA499. These two Spring Drive additions to the model’s Class line have been produced in restricted numbers, and every launched a heat crimson dial.
One was the traditional SBGY035 with its C-shaped case, produced in a restricted run of 700 items. The opposite was the sportier SBGA499, which was restricted to 1,300 items. The previous homes the manual-winding Spring Drive caliber 9R31, which doesn’t have the facility reserve indicator on the dial. Nevertheless, the latter options the tried-and-true Spring Drive caliber 9R65, which prominently options the facility reserve indicator on the dial.
September was a month stuffed with highlights
In early September, Daan wrote about two new fashions that launched the concept of winter whereas it was nonetheless heat exterior. The primary of those was the turquoise-dial Grand Seiko SLGA025. This titanium watch joined the Evolution 9 collection, which additionally options the “Birch” fashions. The colour of the Atera River impressed the watch’s dial, which has nice depth and brings a full of life notice to the fashionable, angular design.
Contained in the case, you can find the 9RA2 Spring Drive motion that Grand Seiko launched with the Evolution 9 collection. This Spring Drive caliber is correct to ±0.5 seconds per day and affords a five-day energy reserve.
Alongside the SLGA025, Grand Seiko launched the 37mm SBGH347. The watch featured an ice-blue dial impressed by the frozen Nanataki Falls close to Mount Iwate. It’s constructed from Ever-Sensible Metal and powered by the 9S85 Hello-Beat computerized motion.
This watch was a little bit of a sleeper amid all of the Grand Seiko goodness, but it surely gained a battle in our Sunday Morning Showdown collection when it beat the favored Rolex Datejust 36. That is good proof that you simply guys recognize Grand Seiko as a lot as we do within the Fratello workplace.
Absolutely the spotlight of the yr
Grand Seiko additionally handled us to the spotlight of the yr in September. The SLGW004 and SLGW005 reintroduced Grand Seiko’s well-known 45GS case fashion in correct trend. As Thomas defined, the 2 watches completely respect the unique design, measurement, and proportions of the 45GS fashions of the Sixties. The primary of the 2 fashions was the 18K gold SLGW004 accessible in a restricted run of 200 items. Grand Seiko additionally produced 1,200 items of the chrome steel SLGW005. Undoubtedly, these flew out the door as soon as they turned accessible in November.
Each variations home the hand-wound 9SA4 caliber that the model launched throughout Watches and Wonders. The design, the attractive 38.8mm case, and the beautiful motion make these good fashionable reissues of the Grand Seiko 45GS. As acknowledged, they have been a real spotlight of the Grand Seiko releases this yr!
A pair of European exclusives in October
October was barely just a few days previous when Grand Seiko handled us to a pair of gorgeous European restricted editions. As Mike defined, the Grand Seiko SBGY040 and SBGW321 characteristic mesmerizing dials impressed by tranquil Japanese gardens. The SBGW321 combines a 36.5mm 44GS-style case with a surprising crimson dial. The dial texture and coloration have been impressed by the scales of Japanese carp, or nishikigoi (錦鯉), that dwell within the wealthy Japanese waters. Powering this 300-piece restricted version is the well-known hand-winding 9S64 caliber, which is correct to +5/-3 seconds per day and affords 72 hours of energy reserve.
The second mannequin was the SBGY040, which is a part of the Class assortment. This watch combines a 38.5mm rose gold case with a deep blue textured dial. This one’s texture was impressed by the light ripples from a chisen teien (池泉庭園), or Japanese pond backyard. Contained in the rose gold case, you can find the in-house 9R31 Spring Drive caliber, which is a part of the collection of actions that celebrated its Twentieth anniversary in 2024. Later in October, Mike additionally had an opportunity to take a look at the fashions within the steel, so you’ll want to learn his hands-on article about these two stunning watches.
The final Grand Seiko launch we reported on got here in December
Lastly, we rounded off our protection of Grand Seiko’s 2024 novelties with the attractive SBGH349 “Icefall.” Primarily, this watch is the titanium larger brother of the metal SBGH347 that I discussed earlier. It includes a 40mm Excessive-Depth Titanium case and bracelet. Inside it lies a lovely ice-blue dial impressed by the waterfalls round Mt. Iwate, which freeze because of the harsh winters in Iwate Prefecture.
The watch’s case form takes after the primary Grand Seiko 9S mannequin from 1998, and it hasn’t aged a day. Contained in the case, you can find the Hello-Beat 9S85 motion. This acquainted computerized motion operates at 36,000vph and affords 55 hours of energy reserve. The watch is the proper light-weight counterpart of its smaller brother. Each watches look wonderful and share comparable dials. However they’re for various folks, making them a wise pair of Grand Seiko releases to shut out the yr in fashion.
Closing ideas on Grand Seiko in 2023
With many new releases, it’s been one other nice yr for Grand Seiko. The most important introduction was the hand-wound caliber 9SA4, which debuted at Watches and Wonders and powered two pairs of extraordinary watches that have been simple highlights of 2024. General, the stream of releases we coated was much less intensive than final yr. Nonetheless, it has been removed from a quiet yr for the Japanese model. My undisputed spotlight was the SLGW005.
I had an opportunity to strive that out and was mesmerized by the watch. Grand Seiko did an incredible job bringing again the traditional 45GS and honoring it by respecting the unique watch’s particulars. It was nothing in need of breathtaking in a yr stuffed with good watches. After seeing all these releases in a single article, we’re certain lots extra nice releases from the model are developing in 2025!
